I'm back again. Spent the last few days in Cusco. Went back for the Inti Raymi and catch up with a few friends before I say my final farewells. It was mad. The whole town was in fiesta mode from the time I got their (and apparently for a few days earlier too). On the Friday there was traditional dancing in the street and a big concert of all types of Peruvian music, traditional Andean music (think pipes, guitars and drums), rock and what's called Musica Andena (think the sound a cat makes when you step on its tail). The main square was absolutely packed full of drunk people all night. Quite a sight. Even several hours after the concert finished, the streets were still full of people.

Saturday was another big fiesta in the town. Less a fiesta than one hell of  street parade. It started before I first went down the street at 10am and was still going when I went out that night at 11pm. As per all fiestas in Cusco, it involved people in balaclavas whipping each other, people dancing in masks and bright costumes and plenty of marching bands playing the same tune over and over again. It seems everyone in town was involved in a float. The day itself was quite relaxing. Its amazing how you set aside time to relax and end up getting less sleep than when you are busy because you figure you can go out at night. Oh well, it's all fun.

Sunday was the Inti Raymi festival, the festival of the sun. It coincides with the anniversary of Cusco which is why the celebrations go on all week. Traditionally it's held on the 21st, Winter Solstice, but the mayor changed the date to coincide with the anniversary of Cusco. An odd decision given there are no actual records of the exact day Cusco was founded by the Incans. After hiking up to the Incan fortress Sacsayhuaman, an achivement in itself, I had to battle the masses who crowd the hills adjacent the fortress to gain a free view of the ceremony. There are only about 2000 seats for the festival and they are really expensive and the hills only provide partial views in most places so it's a bit of pot luck. Once the festival started, the crowd was the most entertaining part. Someone would stand up and everyone would pelt them with rubbish and food. And then spontaneously a stampede would start and everyone would rush to the front blocking everyone elses view. Consequently, I didn't stay in the same place for long, just spent the day strolling around trying to get a good view of where the action is. The ceremony itself is based on one performed every year according to guidelines researched by the local Unversities. It is a huge undertaking with over a hundred people involved in the huge multi leveled fortress and a central stage in the middle of the battlefield. It was quite a spectacle, thoughb I couldn't understand a thing because there are no speakers in the hill sections and all the dialogue is in Quechua of which I only know about 4 words. Unfortunately, now that the festival is somewhat an international event they no longer sacrifice the llama and read its entrails to see what fortune the year ahead brings, damn animal rights activists. The highlight was the colour and the costumes, the constant music and dancing. Was an impressive display even though half of what happened went straight over my head.

That night I went out to some friends' farm in the sacred valley in a small town called Huaran. It was great to get out there free from distractions and just relax and enjoy the company of friends. With thae river that runs past the house, the surrounding mountains and the low population, it was an ideal location to relax for a bit The family has been heavily involved with previous volunteer programs by World Youth International so I got to know them well during the programme. Whilst there I spent a day walking to a georgrous little mountain village called Cancha Cancha. All of the buildings, walls, fences, etc. were all made from piled rocks without the use of mortar or mud to hold them together with thatched rooves. It is located at the junction of two streams that are surrounded by three giant mountains. On either side you can see glaciers at the top of the mountains and it has a true medieval feel to it. With the cloudy weather and wind it reminded me of the village in the movie 'Rob Roy' based in the Scottish Highlands. Such a stunning setting.

Apart from that I've being trying to take it easy, unsuccessfully though. The next few weeks will be very busy trying to cover as much ground as possible in only a limited time. I arrived in Ecuador today so the next adventure will be from a new country. Have fun and stay safe.

Cheers